Once obscure pilgrimage site, how Hampi turned into global destination
On March 1, 2018, under the Centre’s regional air connectivity scheme UDAN, flights started from Bengaluru to Ballari, from where Hampi is a distance of 62 km. This is expected to increase connectivity to the monument complex. But connectivity and facilities, not to mention an international profile, have not come easily for Hampi.
The site is vast, spread over 41 sq km, containing more than 1,800 buildings, markets, fortifications, ponds and temples, with a history of settlement going back to the Mauryan Empire. Ashokan rock edits have been found at Nittur and Udegolam, near the city complex. In 1565, a coalition of Muslim sultanates defeated Vijayanagara and sacked the city. It was only in 1856 that it was re-discovered, by Alexander Greenlaw of the East India Company.
“When I was young, the only time my parents could earn a decent amount of money was during festivals like Shivratri, Hampi Jatra and Phala Puja. We could earn about Rs 2,000 during these festivals, which was a lot of money in the 1980s. The rest of the year, it was a hand-to-mouth existence,” said A Krishnam Raju, whose parents emigrated to Hampi to sell incense sticks, camphor and other pooja material.
“All of this started changing from 1990 onwards. Now there are at least 100 members of 30 families related to me who are in the hospitality industry in Hampi and are earning well,” Raju, who owns a restaurant near the protected area, added.
In 1988, UNESCO declared Hampi a world heritage site, which led to a boost in the number and type of tourists who began to arrive. By then, Dutch artist Robert Geesink had been living in the area for nearly two decades, and would go on to stay for another two. “He motivated us to consider expanding our services to tourists. Hampi was becoming more than a pilgrimage spot. First he told me to serve tea to visitors. Then he put pressure on me to serve chapatis. Now I have 30 employees at my restaurant,” Raju added.
According to Sripada Pathikonda, secretary, Tourism Entrepreneurs’ Association, Hosapete, there were just 6 or 7 hotels in Hosapete a decade ago. “Now we have 50. Hosapete region can officially accommodate 2,000 guests per day. Many unauthorised home stays and hotels have come up in surrounding villages. There are also hotels in towns like Ballari, Koppal, Gadag and even Hubballi where Indian and foreign tourists stay,” he added.
The Archaeological Survey of India (ASI) has recognised 57 monuments in Hampi as World Heritage Sites. The state archaeological department has identified over 1,800 monuments. ASI formed a separate Hampi Mini Circle on September 5, 2014 for upkeep.
The change began in 1990. Now, at least 100 members from 30 families related to me are in the hospitality industry in Hampi, and earning well
Raju, Restaurant owner
Hundreds of youths also earn a living as route and monument guides. Motilal Lamani, deputy director of tourism and commissioner, Hampi World Heritage Area Management Authority (HWHAMA), said, “Earlier there were only 90 authorised guides in Hampi. Now it’s doubled. We have trained them with historical facts, language skills and guidelines on how to behave with visitors. We have also taught Russian, French, English and German to some of them.”Several regional filmmakers have been shooting at the monument complex after obtaining permission from the authorities.
Hampi may have seen the most remarkable turnaround for any major tourist site in the country in the recent past, but problems remain. A video which was widely circulated online at the beginning of February showed some youths toppling reconstructed pillars near a Vishnu temple. Locals have alleged that lax protection of the sites by ASI is to blame. A team of archaeologists, police officers and district administration officials have surveyed the damage and recommended that the ASI increase the number of CCTV cameras in the complex and tighten security arrangements.
Young Indian men vandalize Hampi, the @UNESCO World Heritage site which is on @nytimes 52 places to visit in 2019… https://t.co/Dja601iY5E
— Raju Narisetti (@raju) 1549121051000Locals have other problems as well with the manner in which the site is administered. “Hampi was protected by local residents much before ASI was even formed. Now citing ASI norms and alleging illegal activities, HWHAMA is trying to make us vacate the village,” said M Swati Singh, vice-president of Hampi gram panchayat, which includes 73 individual households and claims ownership of Virupaksha Temple, a protected monument. The villagers have challenged the move and the matter is in court.
In other cases, experts have objected to some moves made by ASI. Fencing has been erected around several individual sites and monuments in the complex. “This looks very odd and diminishes the look and feel of heritage sites. There is a stone wall near a site known as the Queen’s Bath. Then there are monuments like Bhojana Shale (dining hall) with adjacent monuments. If you put up fencing between these connected sites, it throws away context and meaning,” said Vasudevan CS, professor of ancient history and archaeology, Kannada University at Hampi.
“There is vast scope for adventure sports like rock climbing, trekking and water sports, not to mention photography. However, ASI has been creating hurdles for tourists with its archaic rules. If a nature enthusiast wants to use a tripod for photography, he/she has to apply for permission 15 days in advance. Is it acceptable today, when foreign tourists are flying in from Bengaluru? Why can't ASI issue it on the spot at its ticket counters?” questioned Pompayya Malemath, a wildlife enthusiast.
Pictures courtesy: Shivashankar Banagar
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